Lamu, Kenya

is a dream

Arrive by air, then by sea

Lamu waits at the end of a romantic journey to the edge of, then off, the continent. We drove through the urban choreography of Nairobi to Wilson Airport, where a fleet of single- and twin-propeller planes waited on the tarmac just outside the single-room terminal. We took one of those twin-prop planes to Manda Airport via Safarilink Airlines, where Safari, the manager of Andavelo House, met us with a bright blue boat to take us across the channel to Lamu island.

The town swayed into focus, and we docked on the wide waterfront promenade. Slip into an alleyway, though, and enter a different world: a maze of unnamed cobblestone streets and Swahili-style buildings made from locally harvested coral, twisting, looping, and zig zagging through cool shade and dazzling sunlit passageways. There are no cars on the island – the only traffic jams are of the donkey variety (watch where you step!). You might turn a corner just as the distant call to prayer rings out, and encounter a cascade of the brightest bougainvillea, and you just might be transported.

Stay at a gorgeous, historic guesthouse

We stayed at Andavelo House, and loved every minute of it. It’s a gorgeous Swahili building with enormous rooms, traditional high beds, and the nicest staffmembers. Amu, the chef, made us the most delicious meals, and picked up market-fresh ingredients daily.

Wander the island

The eastern stretch of coastline is divided into two main towns: Lamu Old Town and Shela. You can walk roughly 40 minutes between them, but it’s faster and easier to hop on a boat – just walk to the water, and there will be many people willing to ferry you. We got the Whatsapp number of one of the first captains to drive us, and texted him for occasional pickups (for reference, below).

Lamu Old Town is a labyrynth rendered in chiaroscuro

There are no street addresses. My best advice is to

just explore.

Stumble across antique and artisan shops, art galleries (shout out to Phoenix Studio, which teaches young artists in Lamu, and shipped a painting to the US as a surprise for my husband), a produce market, museums (Lamu Museum, Lamu Fort), and hidden gem cafes (La Dulce Toro Cafe). You might also stumble across a dance circle where kids gather the courage to compete, a family grilling on the sidewalk, or a picturesque glimpse down an alley ending in sea.

Shela’s sunwashed, still streets are ringed by sand and sea

Go for a relaxed walk around gorgeous alleys, the occasional donkey encounter, ice cream, and the sound of palm trees swaying.

Upscale boutiques offer locally-inflected clothing (Aman) and homewares (Lulu Stories, African Corner). The Shela Women’s Association offers Swahili cooking classes, and I’m still thinking about the chapati we made.

Hire a dhow to go farther afield

We made two dhow trips: a sunset tour (gorgeous! Romantic!) and a ride through mangrove forest to the Takwa ruins, the remains of a 15th century Swahili town (moody! Rainy!)

Until next time...

Out of Town

Places, Info